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Where to Eat Now 2004

Texas Monthly, February 2004

Vic & Anthony's.

Houston — The year 2003 will be remembered in Houston as the year restaurant mogul Tilman Fertitta vacuumed up three of the city's most fashionable outposts — Pesce, La Griglia and Grotto — into his burgeoning empire. Not only that, the mastermind of Landry's and Joe's Crab Shack opened his very own steakhouse, Vic & Anthony's. Clearly, a message was being sent: The man can do class as well as mass. When I first heard about V&A's I thought, "Surf and turf — bor-ing." So imagine my surprise when I had not only a fine time but very good food. Chef Carlos Rodriguez's nine-ounce filet mignon was pure velvet (as well it should have been for $26). The russet-hued lobster bisque bristled with flavor and tender, meaty chunks of lobster. Lump crabmeat was strewn about like popcorn on everything except the crème brûlée. True, the overwrought décor doesn't so much whisper "money" as shout it, but that doesn't bother me. After all, we are in Texas.